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So Fresh: Tacos de Carnitas on a Jicama shell with Red Cabbage Slaw

Carnitas

Last month we went to one of the events for the LA Food & Wine Festival at Paramount Studios and sampled some great food (and got to see Mariachi El Bronx perform... so dope!).  One of the more ingenious offerings was a taco served on a thin slice of jicama.  Jicama is a root vegetable with a unique sweet/peppery flavor, similar to a radish or a turnip.  If you are cutting out carbs, try this crunchy alternative.   

Carnitas is made from richly marbled pork shoulder.  It is braised for hours in milk and orange juice until the meat can be pulled apart with a fork, and then quickly caramelized as the liquid evaporates in the last step. Carnitas are traditionally paired with the bright flavors of cilantro, raw onions, and salsa.  I made a bangin' red cabbage slaw from Bobby Flay and added some of the slow-roasted cherry tomatoes I made earlier in the week.  

Carnitas
serves 3 or 4

Ingredients
For Carnitas:
1 1/2 lbs boneless pork shoulder
2 tblsp canola oil or vegetable oil
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 orange, well washed
1/2 cup whole milk
about 1 cup water
1/2 tsp fresh ground black pepper
1 cinnamon stick

For Red Cabbage Slaw:
juice of half an orange
juice of 2 limes
2 scallions, white and pale green part only, chopped
1/4 cup cilantro leaves
1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
1/2 tblsp honey
salt and fresh cracked pepper
3 tblsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 head of red cabbage, sliced thinly on a mandoline

For Serving:
1 large, round jicama, peeled and sliced to 1/4-inch thickness on a mandoline (put in a bowl with cold water in the fridge until ready to use. Dry on paper towels)
chopped cilantro
hot sauce

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Cut the pork into 6 or 8 pieces. Trim off any pieces of pure fat.  Season with salt and pepper.  Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven.  Brown the meat on all sides.

2. Squeeze the orange over the meat and toss the rind into the pan.  Pour the milk over the meat and add enough water to almost cover the meat.  Sprinkle with some more pepper.  Add the cinnamon stick.  Cover tightly and bake for about 2 hours, until the meat is fork-tender.

3.  To finish, uncover the meat and break into largish pieces.  Remove the orange rind and cinnamon stick and discard.  Roast, uncovered, until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 20 minutes, until the meat is caramelized and crisp on the edges.

4.  In the meantime, make the slaw.  Combine all the ingredients besides the cabbage in a blender or food processor until smooth.  In a large bowl, toss the cabbage with the vinaigrette. Taste for salt and pepper. Let sit for at least an hour.

5.  To assemble the tacos, pull apart the pork with two forks.  Place some on a jicama round. Top with slaw, guacamole, slow-roasted tomatoes and hot sauce.  Serve with lime wedges.

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My dream dessert: Blueberry-Peach Cobbler with Lemon-Cornmeal Biscuit Topping

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There was no doubt I was making this recipe.  I'm a sucker for fruit cobblers.  And I love baked goods with cornmeal and lemon zest in them.  Again, this impeccable recipe comes from Cook's Illustrated, where the editors tested and perfected this classic summer dessert.  The fruit filling is delicately sweet and tart, and the bright blueberries look stunning next to the golden peaches. The drop biscuits on top have an airy, fluffy texture and a rustic appearance flecked with lemon zest.  Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.

Blueberry-Peach Cobbler w/ Lemon-Cornmeal Biscuit Topping
serves 6

*Notes: If your peaches are firm, you should be able to peel them with a sharp vegetable peeler.  If they are too soft and ripe to withstand the pressure of a peeler, blanch and shock them before peeling.  Do not prepare the biscuit dough any sooner than the recipe indicates; if the unbaked dough is left to stand too long, the leavener will expire and the biscuits will not rise properly in the oven.  This recipe can be doubled for a crowd; use a 13x9 inch baking dish and increase the baking times in steps 2 and 4 by about 5 minutes.

Ingredients
For Filling:
2 pounds ripe but firm peaches (about 6 medium)
1 cup blueberries, rinsed and picked over
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp cornstarch
1 tblsp juice from 1 lemon
pinch salt

For Biscuit Topping:
1 cup minus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tblsp stone-ground cornmeal
1/2 tsp lemon zest
3 tblsp plus 1 tsp sugar
3/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
5 tblsp cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1/3 cup plain whole milk yogurt

1.  Adjust an oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 425 degrees.

2.  For the filling:  Peel the peaches then halve and pit each.  Using a melon baller or small spoon, scoop out and discard the dark flesh from the pit area.  Cut each half into four wedges.  Gently toss the peaches and sugar together in a large bowl; let stand for 30 minutes, tossing several times.  Drain the peaches in a colander set over a large bowl.  Whisk 1/4 cup of the drained juice (discard remaining juice), the cornstarch, lemon juice, and salt together in a small bowl.  Toss the peach juice mixture with the peach slices and blueberries and transfer to an 8-inch square glass baking dish.  Bake until the fruit begins to bubble around the edges, about 10 minutes.

3.  For the biscuit topping:  While the fruit is baking, in a food processor pulse the flour, cornmeal, lemon zest, 3 tablespoons sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt to combine.  Scatter the butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the mixture resembles a coarse meal, about ten 1-second pulses.  Transfer to a medium bowl; add the yogurt and toss with a rubber spatula until a cohesive dough is formed.  (Don't over mix the dough, or the biscuits will be tough).  Break the dough into 6 evenly sized but roughly shaped mounds and set aside.

4.  To assemble and bake the cobbler:  After the peaches and blueberries have baked 10 minutes, remove from the oven and place the dough mounds on top, spacing them at least 1/2 inch apart (they should not touch).  Sprinkle each mound with a portion of the remaining 1 teaspoon sugar.  Bake until topping is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling, 16 to 18 minutes.  Cool the cobbler on a wire rack until warm, about 20 minutes; serve.

Filed under  //  dessert   recipes   summer  
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Damn good and good for you: Farro with Coarse Pesto

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Farro is an ancient grain with a chewy texture and a delicious nutty flavor.  This recipe comes from Giada de Laurentiis and is a truly Italian dish; simple, colorful ingredients with bold flavor.  It comes together in a snap and makes a hearty, healthy side dish.  I added the zest of one lemon to the recipe for some extra brightness.  I think it could be interesting to add chopped walnuts, as it would mimic the look of the farro and is a frequent element of pesto.  Serve as part of an antipasto spread, or as a side dish to grilled chicken.

Farro with Coarse Pesto
Giada de Laurentiis
Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients
8 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 lb farro (about 2 1/2 cups)
2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves
2 tblsp fresh thyme leaves
2 garlic cloves
zest of 1 lemon (optional)
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tblsp red wine vinegar
3/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
Pecorino Romano cheese for garnish

1.  Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat.  Add the farro and stir to combine.  Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan, and simmer until the farro is tender, about 25 minutes.  Drain the farro and set aside in a large bowl.

2.  Meanwhile, in a food processor combine the parsley, basil, thyme, garlic and lemon zest.  Pulse until the herbs are coarsely chopped (don't overwork it).  Add the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.  Pulse again until the herbs make a coarse mixture.

3.  Toss the warm farro with the coarse pesto.  Transfer to a serving bowl.  Using a vegetable peeler, make about 1/2 cup of cheese shavings from the pecorino wedge.  Tip the farro with the shavings and serve.

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Make this for your next picnic: Yellow-Eyed Pea Salad with crunchy green veggies

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I found some yellow-eyed peas at Surfas and knew they would make a beautiful salad (and photo).  The beans stayed firm yet creamy for several days after I made them.  This resiliency makes them a great option for packing a picnic.  I used a variety of green vegetables for a fetching presentation and a crunchy contrast.  This salad gets better over night, as the beans soak up the vinaigrette.  Celery leaves make a gorgeous garnish and have a surprising amount of flavor. 

Yellow-Eyed Pea Salad
serves 6

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups dried yellow-eyed peas
1 green bell pepper, chopped
2 celery stalks, sliced, plus leaves for garnish
1 small English cucumber, chopped
zest of half a lemon
juice of 1 large lemon, about 3 tblsp
1 small garlic clove, pressed
5 tblsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and cracked pepper
1 tblsp minced parsley

1.  In a heavy stock pot or Dutch oven, cover beans with 4 inches of water.  Bring to a boil, then reduce heat.  Cook until tender, about 45 to 55 minutes.  Drain and let cool.

2.  Make the dressing: In a large bowl, combine lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper.  In a slow, steady stream, whisk in olive oil.  Stir in parsley.  Add beans and chopped vegetables to the dressing and toss.  Cover and chill for at least 1 hour.  Garnish with celery leaves. 

 

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Old School. Piquillo Peppers stuffed with Bacalao and Mashed Potatoes

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Salt cod (bacalao in Spanish / baccalà in Italian) is cod that has been preserved through drying and salting.  It dates back over 500 years and it is a traditional ingredient in many countries on the Atlantic.  I first had it in the tapas bars in Spain, where they put it in croquettes, cube and fry it, or mash it with potatoes and herbs and stuff peppers with it.  Italians do many of the same dishes, often with raisins, capers, or olives. Baccalà is a classic component in the Italian Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve.

You can find Bacalao at the fish counter of many nice grocery stores.  It comes packed in a small wooden box...mine was imported from Nova Scotia.  I combined several recipes to make these stuffed piquillo peppers.  I served them with Iberico ham, Manchego, olives, and pan con tomate.

Stuffed Piquillo Peppers with Bacalao and Mashed Potatoes
serves 6 as an appetizer

Ingredients
1 lb salt cod (1 box)
3 cups whole milk
3 cloves garlic, with skin, crushed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tblsp black peppercorns
2 small bay leaves
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 lb russet potatoes, skinned, cubed
extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
12 roasted piquillo peppers from a jar, drained

1.  Rinse the cod under cold running water to remove any surface salt.  Place the pieces in a large non-reactive bowl, cover with water and refrigerate (covered) for 24 hours, changing the water several times.

2.  Remove the cod from the water bath.  In a medium saucepan, combine milk, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns and cayenne.  Place the cod in the pot and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, being careful not to scorch the milk.  Gently boil the cod until it flakes easily with a fork, about 10 minutes depending on the thickness.

3.  Remove the cod and let cool.  Strain and reserve the milk. When cod is cool, flake it into a large bowl and remove any bones or bits of skin.  (I did this with my fingers and was very meticulous...you don't want your guests catching a hidden fish bone)

4.  Meanwhile, boil the potatoes until tender and drain.  Use a potato masher (or ricer if you have one) to mash the potatoes, adding the milk and olive oil to achieve desired consistency.  

5.  Add the flaked salt cod to the potatoes.  Add smoked paprika and season with salt and pepper to taste.

6.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Carefully stuff each piquillo pepper with about 3 tblsp of the mixture.  Place in an oiled casserole dish.  When your guests arrive, cook peppers until heated through, about 15 or 20 minutes.  Drizzle with olive oil and sea salt.

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Great technique for tender shrimp full of flavor: Oven-Roasted with Herbs & Garlic

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This is more a technique than a recipe.  I stumbled on it through Fine Cooking and it is so simple and efficient.  Infuse olive oil with fresh herbs for 10 minutes in a hot oven, then add the shrimp and roast them for another 10 minutes.  

This dish resembles Gambas al Ajillo, but it is much more hands-off and the shrimp comes out perfectly tender, which is a tricky thing to achieve in a saute pan. It's like an Italian tapa...my favorite kind of food.  You'll be sopping up the olive oil with crusty bread just like a Spaniard.

Roasted Shrimp with Garlic and Herbs
adapted from finecooking.com 
serves 2 (but easily scaleable)

Ingredients
3 tblsp extra virgin olive oil
3 sprigs of fresh thyme
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
zest of 1 lemon
large pinch red pepper flakes
8-10 extra large shrimp, peeled and deveined
salt and fresh black pepper
juice of 1 lemon

1.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Combine the olive oil, thyme, rosemary, garlic, lemon zest, red pepper flakes and a twist of cracked black pepper in a baking dish.  Place in the center of the oven and roast until the oil is fragrant, about 10 minutes.

2.  Add the shrimp and toss with tongs until coated.  Roast until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 10 more minutes.

3.  Remove from oven, squeeze the lemon juice over the shrimp, season with salt and more pepper.  Toss and serve with crusty bread.

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A stunning and delicious Mediterranean dessert: Almond & Orange Yogurt Cake

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Greg and I are lucky enough to have a rotating dinner party with 4 of our close friends.  Over the years, the food has gotten better and better... I'm always excited to see what our friends will pull out of their repertoire.

We hosted the most recent dinner and I made some tapas and a big pan of paella.  (I hope to post the Stuffed Piquillo Pepper recipe soon).
For dessert, I made a cake reminiscent of our times in Sevilla;  an almond-yogurt cake featuring the lovely oranges in season right now.  This cake has great texture because it contains both semolina flour and ground almonds.  The refreshing orange flavor comes from orange zest in the batter, and an orange syrup which is poured over the warm cake.  Greek yogurt is an ingredient, and a perfect accompaniment... everyone said it was better than whipped cream or mascarpone.

Almond and Orange Yogurt Cake
from Martha Stewart

Ingredients
(serves 8)
12 tblsp (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan
1 2/3 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
6 wide strips orange zest, plus 1 tblsp finely grated zest
3/4 semolina flour
3/4 cup all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)
1/2 cup blanched almonds, finely ground in a food processor
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 cup Greek yogurt (full fat), plus more for serving

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and line with parchment paper; butter paper.  In a small saucepan, combine 2/3 cup sugar, water, and orange-zest strips.  Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; cook until sugar has dissolved, about 3 minutes.  Set syrup aside to steep.

2.  Ina  large bowl, whisk together flours, almonds, grated orange zest, baking powder, and salt.  In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, beat butter and remaining sugar until light and creamy.  Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Beat in vanilla.  With mixer on low, alternately beat in the flour mixture and yogurt, beginning and ending with flour mixture.

3.  Transfer batter to prepared pan; bake until cake is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes.  Let cool in pan ten minutes, then invert onto a rimmed serving plate.  Using a fork, poke shallow holes (about 15) into top of cake.  Pour half the syrup over cake; garnish with orange-zest strips from syrup.  Let cool completely.  (optional; at the last second, dust with confectioner's sugar)  Serve with yogurt and remaining syrup.

 

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Supremely Delicious: Veal Ricotta Meatballs in a Lemon Sage Sauce

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There's an excellent small plates restaurant in Silver Lake called Barbrix.  The dining room is candle-lit and the exposed-beam ceiling reminds me of the taverns in New England.  The menu spans the Mediterranean: arancini and polenta from Italy, lamb and tabouli from Morocco, olives and sausages from Spain.  

Barbrix really speaks to me because of what it shares with the philosophy of PEZZO: seasonal, small-plate, Italian.  Originally, PEZZO started as a concept for a restaurant, featuring seasonal ingredients in tapas-style dishes, drawing from Italian and Californian cuisine.  Perhaps you've seen the definition of "pezzo" in the side bar... the word means "piece" in Italian.  I imagine a menu filled with crostini, ravioli, meatballs, arancini... individual bites, but served family style.  For now, PEZZO is a place for me to share and remember the recipes I love.  

That said, we had meatballs in a lemon sauce at Barbrix a while back, and they blew my mind.  Since then, I've been perfecting my own recipe for PEZZO.  The experimenting resulted in these delicate veal and ricotta meatballs, perfumed with a crisp lemon and white wine sauce with earthy sage. 

Serve with whole wheat spaghetti and Sauteed Broccoli Rabe for dinner, or with crusty bread as an appetizer. You will not be disappointed...

Veal Ricotta Meatballs with Lemon Sage Sauce
Ingredients (four servings, about 20 meatballs)

For Meatballs
1/2 lb ground veal
1/2 lb ground pork
1/2 cup fresh ricotta, drained in a cheesecloth if very wet
1 egg
2 garlic cloves, pressed 
1 tblsp finely chopped sage
2 tblsp finely chopped parsley
zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 pinches red pepper flakes
sea salt and pepper to taste
flour, for dredging
extra-virgin olive oil for frying

For Sauce
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup lemon juice (from 1 & 1/2 lemons)
1 tblsp butter
lemon slices
5 sage leaves
salt and peper to taste

1.  In a large bowl, using your hands, combine all of the ingredients (besides flour) for the meatballs, massaging until just incorporated.  Add more breadcrumbs or ricotta if needed.  The meat should be moist, but easy to shape into balls.

2.  Line a cookie sheet with wax or parchment paper.  Form the meat into small balls (about 3 inches in diameter).  Place the balls on the cookie sheet as you go.  Wet your hands if the meat is sticking to them.  You should have about 20 meatballs. (cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 day)

3.  In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, over medium heat, heat enough olive oil to generously coat the surface of the pan.  Place 1/2 cup of flour in a shallow dish.  Lightly roll the meatballs in the flour, and then fry until the meatballs are golden brown on all sides; turn them regularly.  Do this in two batches, do not crowd them in the frying pan.  Keep the meatballs warm in a covered bowl as you make the sauce.

4.  Immediately after removing the second batch of meatballs from the pan, add the white wine to deglaze.  Simmer over medium heat until reduced by half.  Add the chicken stock and lemon juice.  Let reduce for 5 to 10 minutes.  Add the butter, lemon slices, sage leaves and salt and pepper to taste.  Add the meatballs back into the sauce, toss to coat, and let heat through for 3 minutes.  Serve family style in a large bowl, and shave some slices of Parmesan over the top.

 

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An American Classic: Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

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Our friends hosted us at a lovely dinner party this weekend and I offered to bring dessert.  Pineapple upside-down cake is a quintessential American dessert, and a recipe I've always wanted to try.  

The pineapple upside-down cake was originally devised in the 1920's as a way to promote canned pineapple, which had recently come on the market through Dole Co.  Women's magazine's began running recipes featuring the pineapple cakes, studded with Maraschino cherries, baked in a cast-iron skillet.  

As you can imagine, using fresh pineapple is far superior, though it remains a very simple cake to make.  A generous amount of butter coats the bottom of the pan, then is covered by brown sugar, fresh pineapple, and a vanilla cake batter.  As the cake bakes, the fruit juice combines with the butter and sugar to make a sticky, gooey caramel.  This sweet nectar seeps into the cake after it is inverted and rests on your serving platter.  This technique can also be used with slim wedges of fresh apricots, peaches or plums, or even slices of tart apple tossed in cinnamon.  

Fresh Pineapple Upside-Down Cake
(recipe from Epicurious.com)

Ingredients
1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 fresh pineapple, halved lengthwise, cored and peeled
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, room temp
2/3 cup well-shaken buttermilk

1.  Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2.  Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a bowl.  Cut pineapple crosswise into 1/4-inch -thick wedges.  

3.  Butter a 9-inch round cake pan (2 inches deep) lightly on sides and generously on bottom of pan using 1/2 stick of butter.  Sprinkle all of the brown sugar over the butter, and arrange pineapple over it, starting in the center of the pan and overlapping slices slightly.

4.  Beat together remaining stick butter, granulated sugar, and vanilla with an electric mixer at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.  Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.  Reduce speed to low and add flour mixture alternately with buttermilk in batches, beginning and ending with the flour.  Mix just until batter is smooth.

5.  Spread batter evenly over pineapple and bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes.  Cool 15 minutes in pan on a rack.  Run a knife around the edge of the cake, then invert cake onto a plate and remove the pan.  Cool to room temperature.  Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Filed under  //  baking   dessert   recipes  
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My Favorite Spring Chopped Salad with Apple Cinnamon Vinaigrette

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This Spring salad is a perfect harmony of sweet and salty.  We had some baby mesclun greens and chives ready in our garden, making this extra special.  Chopped celery and carrots give it a crunchy bite.  The mesclun greens and red grapes give it a deep purple hue, spiked with bright white cubes of fresh feta.  The vinaigrette, made with apple cider vinegar, lemon juice and cinnamon is a heavenly dressing you will make again and again.  This recipe is adapted from Food & Wine's Annual Cookbook (2008) (simplifying the vinaigrette).

 
I made another version of this for an Easter potluck last weekend, substituting quinoa for the mixed greens.  On my way out, I retrieved my bowl from the table and a stranger said, "You made this?  You've changed my world."
 
 
Chopped Salad with Apple Vinaigrette
Serves 10
 
Ingredients
4 tblsp apple cider vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 pinches cinnamon
Salt and fresh pepper
1 shallot, minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tblsp fresh dill and 1 tblsp fresh chives, chopped (optional)
 
2 stalks of celery, chopped in half moons
2 large carrots, chopped
1 medium seedless cucumber, chopped
2 cups red seedless grapes, halved
4 oz fresh, firm feta cheese, cubed
5 handfuls baby mesclun greens
3 handfuls chopped romaine lettuce 
 
1. In a large bowl, whisk together vinegar, lemon juice, shallot, cinnamon, salt and pepper.  In a slow, steady stream, whisk in olive oil.  Stir in the herbs.
 
2.  Gently toss the remaining ingredients in the dressing.  Serve immediately.

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